“Mystic Galicia”- From my Spanish Diaries
“Aguafuertes Gallegas”
(title used as an homage to argentinian writer “Roberto Arlt”, who wrote the true “Aguafuertes Gallegas”)
Day 1- Tuesday 25th December 2007
… I started writing about this new trip on a half-empty-forgotten address book from 2006. These are the last days of December 2007. The world is waiting for a new year, I am waiting for a bus that will take me from Barcelona to Madrid. Eight hours and I will be far away…
Stylish people, stylish?
I see many people: mediterranean, latin, afro or oriental looks… There´s a blond guy sitting in front of me. He is reading, I am nervous. He suddenly gets up and warns me about keeping an eye on my bags. According to his warning, somebody has been watching me For a moment… I have this “nordic” sensation surrounding my thoughts: once more, everybody believes I am a “guiri” (a tourist, a foreigner). This guy asked me if I spoke Spanish before giving me advice… once more I can´t avoid this feeling: I am an observer full of cultures but stuck in that “I don´t belong”- “Where do I belong” blunt feeling… so I ´m bored and tensioned, I want to go soon!
Finally, I am on the bus. I start to observe everything and see a bus driver outside another bus at the same station. We are all stopped and waiting. People are getting on every bus. This driver is standing in silence… It´s the way he is standing, the sunglasses he is wearing and how the wind dresses his hair in different forms. He is not handsome at all, but he shows attitude. “He has seen many worlds, the world´s on his eyes and feet, his hands are like sa-tis-fied roads…” I think… and laugh… because I think he ressembles the image of one of my favourite writers: Truman Capote… maybe I imagine I am in the old and boring town of Alabama city where he grew up and meanwhile I ask myself why the hell, we, the writers have the ability to identify and describe every yawn of God or scratch of the Devil on earth.
I simply realise a new chapter has begun.
Day 2- Wednesday 26th December 2007
It´s midday in Madrid, we take our way to Galicia by car. Avila and Zamora are places we pass by. The weather is nice: not too cold, not too warm.
At about 3 p.m. we have lunch in Benavente. The trip continues without any surprise. The ads on the road indicate many other directions: “A Coruña”, “Lugo”, “Vigo”, “Oviedo”. The landscapes are simple: quite dry, not very green, nothing in particular as to describe in detail.
We arrive to Sigüeiro town by night. Our first typical meal is “Caldo Gallego” (Galician broth), a delicious hot soup with some vegetables and potatoes. “Orujo” is the typical
high alcohol content drink, it´s like a firewater that you must drink in small quantities.
The chosen wine is “Rectoral de Amandi” produced with a grape called Mencía from Ribeira Sacra.
Day 3- Thursday 27th December 2007
We are ready to go for a trekking excursion in Sigüeiro town. We get up at about 9, have breakfast at 9:30. The day is cold, there´s too much fog. Drops of water fall from the wet branches of the trees.We are walking through “Tambre” river.
The bridge that crosses the river is the door to our curious steps. We walk, breath fresh air, observe nature. Nature is naked for us: leaves are on the floor probably dreaming of the spring. The vegetation is sadly beautiful. The foggy forest sleeps while we take pictures of every detail as untiring thieves…
After the excursion it´s time to go shopping for some food. I see the first ads in Galician language: “Boas Festas”. I have a smile in my spirit. I love reading new codes, compare words, find similarities. I think Galician language is pretty similar to Catalan. I hear people speaking in the streets and shops, I realise I understand almost everything!.
Lunch is served at about 2 pm. Sightseeing for “Santiago de Compostela” (Galicia´s capital) find us 11 km away of our town.
The church called “Convento de San Francisco” is our first visit. It´s about 5:30 pm, the sun is getting down. Its warm orange curtains of fire cover the city in an enigmatical and mystic way…
Walking down the streets, we arrive to la “Plaza de Obradoiro”, the centric big square where the cathedral is placed. This church is an amazing construction but how is that some strange and possibly pagan figures are set at the base of the indoor colums? you get the impression that Santiago kept a secret fight between heaven and hell…
The afternoon is quite and perfect to go for a coffee. The evening invites a “tapas bar” where we taste “Pimientos Pedró” (peppers) as part of the tapas and “tarta de Santiago” (cake) as a dessert.
The night knocks the door on “El Paraíso Perdido” (“The lost paradise”), a beautiful and very strange pub in the centre of the city.
Day 4- Friday 28th December 2007
Get up at eight, we must go to Galicia´s airport to pick up another mate. At about 10:00 we go 80 km south into “Ria de Vigo” direction. Going on that way, we are closer to Portugal; stop at “San Simon” island, a curious place which was used as an orphanage and as a prison too. The trip continues until the entrance of Vigo city crossing the bridge called “Ponte de Rande”. We go back and take Pontevedra´s direction to arrive to a town called “Bueu” in Cangas. There, we are welcomed by a kind friend (*1) who will guide us through different beautiful places on that day.
Our guide invites us to visit his house set on a place with amazing views of Galicia. After tasting a delicious and typical “albariño” a home- made wine from his own warehouse, our new direction is “Cabo Udra”, a wild natural place at Ria de Pontevedra.
At about 2 p.m. another typical lunch is waiting for us: “Cocido Gallego” (Galician Stew), a plate made of many types of meat and vegetables.
In Cangas town we see the “Cruceiro de Hío”, a cross made by the sculptor José Cerviño in 1872 which has scenes of the old testament from the base to the top. The beauty of suffering and tragedy hits your spirit before entering to the “Iglesia parroquial de San Andrés”, the church that is behind it.
“Costa da Vela” is the next place we visit. This is a beautiful beach with amusing vegetation of trees and clean sand. From this view you can see other important beaches.
All the place has an arqueological and ecological importance.
Following the excursión “Monte do Facho” in Morrazo area it is an old pre Roman town that attracted peregrinations because it was considered as a sanctuary. It is also very important because of his hyeroglyphics on the stones.
… I just hear the sound of our steps on the pebble when we get down to Costa da Vela again… everything is in silence, we are in silence feeling the fresh air caressing our faces…
The only sound you hear are the strong waves hitting each other and playing like furious wild children. Our best picture is taken on a giant metal snail put as some kind of modern sculpture in the middle of this natural place.
Day 5- Saturday 29th December 2007
12:30- We are in Pontevedra´s zone in a town called “Baños de xurxo”. It is too rainy… we have a break to go for a coffee. We arrive to “Cuspedriños” town, “the town that doesn’t exist” according to the stories some local women tell us. This is what in Spain is called “La España profunda” (the deep Spain), you can see peasant women carrying cows under the rain, working very hard , dressed in old clothes and boats for rain.
We interrupt their daily work with our cameras. We want to take pictures. One of them tell us something. We don´t understand very quickly. We believe they do not want us to take pictures of the cows and they were saying exactly the opposite: they were so kind that offered us to carry their cows to take proper pictures!. We can’t believe how kind they are. They want and need to talk. We suppose or have the feeling of what is to be many hours alone working in such a deep solitud…
This day is very important for me because I will do a real hard trekking for the first time in my life. The next zone is called “Balneario de Sant Xusto”. We walk under the rain on the montain, the route is called “Sendeiro de San Xusto”.The forest is full of gold autum leaves. The floor is irregular and full of stones, walking it is not an easy task. We have to go up and down all the time. We stop to eat something when we are at the natural “balneario” which is a place with strange bathtubes made of stone.
At 5:30 we are up again. The excursion has finished and it seems that I have succeed!
I am all blushed, it is hard to breath properly and I definetely need a lot of water to recover a bit of energy. My mates are laughing about me. They are experts in these kind of activities!… I guess I am only a lost writer stumbling over ideas the rain spits on my wet head…
Coming back from this new experience we deserve a hot meal in Santiago by night. I watch the shops, the streets. I realise Santiago has many stylish shops as one called “El humanoide del traje verde” (“The humanoid of the green suit”). It is very funny to see a t-shirt on its show window that says: “Te odio ex” (I hate you, ex).
After dinner a bar called “Garigolo” placed on “Praciña da algalia de arriba” street is the chosen café to continue our deserved relax. (the long names of the streets call out my attention…)
Day 6- Sunday 30th December 2007
At 11:00 before midday we are ready to go out again. “Pontedeeume” town in “La Coruña” direction is a picturesque town full of cobbled streets and a view to the sea with colourful ships. There, we enter to do a quick visit to the “Iglesia de Santiago” (the “Church of Santiago”).
Later, we go to visit the “Fragas do Eume”, a natural park which is considered one of the Iberian forest jewels. Its vegetation reflects the different tonalities of the seasons: from the deep green to the autumnal yellow or the bloom of the chestnuts in the summer.
The general aspect remains a jungle. You can see beautiful cascades that you can´t stop looking at.
The “Mosteiro de Caaveiro” (Monastery of Caaveiro) is another jewel we visit. Following the river you acces to the ruin of the oldest Benedictine monastery in Galicia.
A kind guide is there to tell us stories about the life in a place thought for priests to be isoleted from the world, a shelter to find peace…
There are some secret basement that no one knows what they were used for. A funny story tells that blond women were kept there to avoid men´s temptation.
Our kind guide shows us a place used to practice musical activities. I see a sheet with printed music and he comments he goes there to practice singing. We ask him to sing for us and he delights our ears with a peaceful and traditional “kirye eleison”.
At about 18:30 we go to La Coruña and visit the “Torre de Hércules” (“Tower of Hercules”), an acient Roman lighthouse full of Celtic and Greco- Roman elements.
The end of this day is in the centre of “La Coruña” city tasting typical wine, food and walking through the old pinturesque part of it.
At about 23:30 we go back to Sigüeiro town.
Day 6- Monday 31st December 2007
The morning find us doing some shopping at the centre of Galicia. This is our last day to go for a visit, on the following one, we´ll be travelling in Valencia’s direction (where I will stay for some more days before going to Barcelona again).
3 pm.- We are the luckiest visitors on earth: we are guided through Santiago city by two excellent guides (*2). With every deep, historical and phylosophical explanation I listen to, I think it´s a gift from heaven to re- discover the most known and unknown places of this delighting place.
In other words… I get the feeling that every corner of Santiago hides a mistery, a real or made-up story, a treasure which shines with the strenght of its brave sea, the weight of its stones and the intensity of its cold air. So religious as bewitched: a powerful halo of centuries of cristianity floats around the monuments, or thousands of religious souvenirs at its shops, but, at the same time, the fairies and witches seem to be winking an eye on you or touching your shoulder when you stumble with pagan figures here and there, figures that no one can exactly explain.
The visitor or the pilgrim remain trapped in a doubt, or maybe I would have to say we all remain buried amongst questions, like the fervent apostle who found the beginning and the end of a way he traced inside…
Day 7- Tuesday 1st January 2008
We are on our way to Valencia. Stop at Ponferrada to go for a coffee. I don´t want to eat, I get off the car and go inside… I just watch the shop meanwhile my mates eat something. There are sweets and souvenirs here and there… the place smells to instant coffee and ressembles a giant tired eyelid. I find a book called “Un placer fugaz”, I can´t believe the coincidence, is this a sign from heaven?, this book is about Truman Capote´s letters to his friends and it´s written by Gerald Clarke. I look at it once and once again. I go out and get on the car realising Truman was the driver all the time. He sat on one side of my spirit, with a martini on his hands.
(*1) Many thanks to Jaime
(*2) Many thanks to Carlos & Trinidad
-Many Thanks to Marta, Isa, Sebastián, Jesús and Matthieu-
